Gwen’s Journal

My doublet top and skirt for my Spanish gown are almost done, but I’ll post more information about them later on.

Of late, I’ve been working on the sleeves for my Spanish gown though.   For the undersleeves, I’m using a pattern that I’ve used before with success.

Undersleeve

Similar to the undersleeves in the below portrait, I decided to use a gold cording to decorate the sleeve.  I’m using gold thread with a couching stitch to stitch the cording in place.

Gold Cording

For the oversleeves, I decided to draft a sleeve similar to the one in this portrait:

Anna de Austria

After a lot of investigation, I was not able to find an existing example of a period or modern pattern for this style of sleeve.   I noticed though that this Spanish sleeve also had another varient that I found in several portraits found here: http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/anadeaustria.htm Unfortunately you can only view the thumbnails for most images, but if you look closely you’ll notice that the bottom of the sleeve is not tucked into itself like the variation I’m working on is.

Since I didn’t have a pattern to start with, I decided to start from scratch.    I used the basic sleeve shape of a Spanish Round sleeve, but instead of the opening being in the front, my desired variation has the opening in the back closed using ties/points.

Round Sleeve

The sleeve cap for this pattern also took a bit of time to play with since I couldn’t use a standard bell shape sleeve head.   Ultimately, below is what I came up for with the shape needed.   There is a slash in the middle of the sleeve to allow for the arm opening.

A decorated band will be added at wrist level to which tabs will also be attached.

Though it has taken me a bit longer than I originally planned due to other projects, I have been gradually making progress on my Saya.

Last week, I spent some time working on the gowns undersleeves. Unfortunately, I found that I do not have enough trim for the sleeves though. I’ll be running to JoAnn’s later this week to pick up what I find that I’m still missing.

This weekend, I spent the majority of Saturday afternoon adjusting my existing doublet pattern since it was not fitting quite right. Since I was fitting the doublet alone though, the fitting ended up taking the majority of Saturday afternoon. I do have a bodice dressform I usually use at this point though, but since it does not have a neck I had to finish this portion on myself while I was wearing my corset.

Yesterday and today, I was able to finally finish cutting out the doublet in the three layers needed for it (fashion fabric, interlining and lining). The outerlayer is black veleteen, I used canvas for the interlining, and black cotton for the lining fabric. I also attached boning to the interlining front two pieces and then finished putting together the outer fabric and interlining pieces. Finally, I attached the interlining to the fashion fabric. My next task will be to add trim to the front and back doublet pieces.

The skirt is now ready to be pleated also so I should have this done by the end of the week too.

Since I’m writing this article on my IPhone, pictures will be attached later.

Over the past week, I spent a bit of time re-organizing my sewing room.   I can actually move around in it again!

Below are "before" pictures.   I’ll take a few "after" pictures later on.   It is still not 100% straightened, but it is much better then it was!

Edit : Adding ‘After Pictures’

It is a little bit better. 

Along with cleaning the room, I relooked at several of my resource books to refresh my memory of Spanish gown styles.   Since it has been several months since I started on this project, I had actually forgotten about some of the original design decisions that I had made.

Instead of making an entire underdoublet, I’m going to just make tie in undersleeves.   This is due to the fact that the materials I originally purchased are different then what I would need to make the underdoublet.    Making tie in sleeves will save me time in the long-run too.

I’ll make the doublet for another future project though since I really like the rasberry color of the material I found for it though.

I’ve been putting it off for a while, but I think it is time for me to fnish the 1570s Spanish Saya (fitted over gown) that I started last year.   My goal is to have it done for Northshield’s Spring Coronation on April 4th.    This gives me a little over a month to finish the project.

At this point, I have all of the material and accessories to finish the project.   I also have the majority of the patterns already drafted.   I just need to put it all together!

Last year I started sewing the over gown’s skirt and a new ruff.    Below is my task list for the items that need to be completed:

• Pleat overgown’s skirt
• Sew ties to overgown’s skirt
• Sew caul (it is cut out already)
• Deside on trims
• Make overgown’s doublet & attach to skirt (Spanish Saya)
• Make under doublet + attached sleeves
• Finish making wrapped buttons for both under and over doublet
• Make overgown’s sleeves (need to decide on style still)
• Sew and decorate hat
• Make wrist ruffs
• Make necklace
• Make waist belt

Items I made in the past that I will re-use:

• Smock
• Corset
• Farthingale
• Bumroll
• Underskirts

Before I get started, I’m going to need to clean my sewing room too.  Its been in a bit of a disarray since my last sewing project.

Looks like I have a lot to do so I better get going!

Inspirations: 

Resources:

http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/
http://ladysarafina.home.att.net/spanish_portraits.htm
http://helois.250free.com/projects/gallery_cc.htm
http://www.vertetsable.com/diaries_morninggown.htm
http://www.geocities.com/lia_de_thornegge/garb/2005blackropa.html
http://www.dragonslaire.org/Articles/Spanish_Mourning_Gown.htm
http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i154/ablackram/research%20photos/showcase%2008/
http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i154/ablackram/research%20photos/showcase%202008/